The waves are crashing from the pacific just over the sand dune behind you….

Your fire is crackling away and the scent of cedar wisps trough the air…

Your tent is just feet away…

What are you having for dinner? If you are crazy like me, the following.

Making dough from scratch on the picnic table. We stuffed little balls of dough with some Tillamook (camping in Oregon) blue cheese,  fried them in some olive oil, and topped with a fennel salt I made with the left over fennel frond.

Grilled pork chop, pearl barley risotto, wine sauce with local grapes, local vegetables

We picked up some Maitake mushrooms at the farmers market, sauteed them with some olive oil, garlic and onions and just a hint of Oregon chardonnay.

Rather large local rib eye steaks, foil baked Yukon gold potatoes and vegetable brunoise

Adding a little Merlot to our lamb bolognese

Lamb bolognese, whole wheat linguine

We even decided to make some sangria with leftover wine… I may or may not have had a couple of beers before the sangria.

My goal in posting these is to show everyone that you do not need fancy restaurant equipment or a high end kitchen to make some amazing food.

The long awaited Indulge article has been published and is available online.

http://www.bclocalnews.com/indulge/lifestyles/96600909.html

As promised, recipe number two from the photoshoot.

wild boar bacon grilled Caesar salad

Dressing:

• 3 cloves of garlic
• ¼  cup canola oil
• ¼  cup olive oil
• 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
• 3 splashes of hot sauce
• 1 tsp salt
• 1 tsp fresh ground pepper
• ¼  cup fresh lemon juice (2 lemons)
• ¼  cup parmesan cheese
• 2 anchovy fillets or 1 tbsp anchovy paste

Place all ingredients in blender, and pulse until emulsified

Grilled Caesar:

• Dressing as made above
• 2 romaine hearts
• Non-stick cooking spray
• Grilled baguette “croutons” (thin slices of baguette brushed with olive oil, grilled then rubbed with garlic)
• Lardons of wild boar bacon (¼ inch pieces, cooked to golden brown)
• Parmesan Shavings
• 4 Anchovy fillets
• Lemon wedges
  

Directions:

• Pre-heat grill to med-high
• Cut romaine hearts in half lengthwise (leave stem and core intact, makes BBQ’ing easier)
• Pour dressing into large shallow bowl
• Dip cut side of romaine in dressing
• Spray grill with non-stick spray
• Grill with lid open, dressing side of romaine for 3 minutes or until grill marked
• Turn romaine 90degrees (to get cross-hatch marks)
• Place grilled side of salad up (leave core intact for presentation)
• Garnish with grilled baguette “croutons”, bacon lardons, anchovy and parmesan shavings

The June issue of Indulge magazine will have a 3-4 feature on Culinary Ink and Chef Donnie. We are giving you a sneak peak at the recipes from that issue.

The issue is all about outdoor living and grilling… two of my favourite things. We did a five course meal on the grill, keep checking back for more recipes…

Starting of with the Amuse Bouche (French for please the mouth, used to excite the palate)

Grilled Watermelon Round, with curry butter poached crab

Ingredients:

• 4 rounds of watermelon, ¼ inch thick (cut with ring mold)
• 2 tablespoons cilantro, finely diced
• 100g  (3oz) crab meat
• ¼ cup butter
• 1 tablespoon curry powder

 Directions:

• Preheat BBQ to medium/high
• Melt butter in sauce pan
• Add curry powder, mix well
• Add crab, simmer on low 5 minutes
• Remove crab, drain excess butter, cool completely
• Spray grill with non-stick spray
• Grill each side for 3-5 minutes for nice grill lines, cool melon completely

Sprinkle cilantro over watermelon rounds, form crab with hands or spoons into small round or quenelle 

Grilled watermelon round with curry butter poached crab

Culinary Ink has partnered with the waterfall building at 1540 West 2nd. This beautiful, modern venue can hold up to 150 guests standing and 80 seated with over 3000 square feet of open space, including the terraces.

The open white space with concrete and tonnes of windows is a great backdrop to your wedding, corporate event or party.

Culinary Ink is mere blocks away, as is Granville Island and spectacular views of the water.

Please contact us to book your event at this trendy venue.

The best and most inspiring part of my week is shopping and wandering the Granville Island market. While shopping for my personal chef clients, I have the priveledge of seeing what the new, fresh produce is for the week. This morning was a special treat. One of my favourite items, that have a season that is only a few months, were out already. Fiddlehead ferns.

Wikipedia describe them as follows “Fiddlehead ferns refers to the unfurled fronds of a young fern harvested for food consumption. The fiddlehead, or circinate vernation, unrolls as the fern emerges from the ground with new growth. As fiddleheads are harvested early in the season before the frond has opened and reached its full height, they are cut fairly close to the ground.

The fiddlehead resembles the curled ornamentation (called a scroll) on the end of a stringed instrument, such as a fiddle. It is also called a crozier, after the curved staff used by bishops, which has its origins in the shepherd’s crook.”

I am partial to the ferns as they are only available for a few months, which makes them special and a treat. Also, they are something the average consumer doesn’t come across, so as a chef, I am able to educate someone on a new taste, plant and a great example of a sustainable produce item. Ferns only produce seven tops that turn into fronds, over picking will actually kill the plant.

An interesting note on the fiddleheads is that they must be cooked prior to consumption in order to remove the shikmic acid, which can be toxic. You should either boil or steam the ferns first, then shock then in ice water to maintain the color and texture.

The following ferns were cleaned by cutting off the brown end, boiled and ice bathed, then sauteed with onion, garlic and a touch of white wine and a pinch of fresh orange zest. If you so desired, you could remove the ferns, reserving the cooking liquid and thicken with a knob of cold butter (monter au beurre) and pour the sauce over the ferns.

If you get the chance, pick these up from your local market or Granville Island and give them a try, they have a unique taste and texture and look great on the plate.

Culinary Ink

Fresh, local, approachable food!

Yes you read that right. I am going to show you how to smoke your own cheesecake… if the first question you asked yourself is what has Chef Donnie been smoking, you aren’t alone and the answer isn’t quite what you think…

I was fortunate enough to get a catalogue from Poly Science delivered to the house a month ago. I was browsing the latest and greatest toys for culinary kids at heart… immersion circulators, anti-griddles and even distillers. Then I saw something that I just had to have… the Smoking Gun.

This contraption looks more like something you would pick up from Puff or Cottonmouth than from a cookware store. It has a chamber or “bowl” where you put the item to be used for smoking, attached and below that is a motorized vaccuum that sucks air through the bowl (keeping the flame alive and creating more smoke) that sucks it through a long rubber hose.

The reason this was a must for me was the cold smoking applications. As many of you have seen on Iron Chef or many cooking shows, chef’s love to smoke things. The problem is that conventional smokers use an application of heat, and therefore limits what can be smoked. You wouldn’t be able to smoke liquids or other items that would melt when contacted with heat. Problem solved.

The inaugural “bowl” was sparked for a five course mini-dinner at a wine pairing event for Marc Anthony Wines in White Rock. The final wine was a 10-year old Tawny Fladgate Port. The initial thoughts for the perfect pair would be a cheese course. However, this was my first public event in White Rock and I wanted to impress, so I made a savoury rosemary cheesecake and pulled out the smoking gun. I used a mix of fresh and dry rosemary and actually smoked the whole cheesecake once it was set.

Take a look.

The Smoking Gun with the “bowl” loaded with the mix of fresh and dry rosemary.

The rubber hose under the cover of the cling wrap.

No that’s not bad photography, the cloudiness is the smoke under the cling wrap.

Notice a little smoke escaping before the cling wrap is sealed.

The finished smoked cheesecake.

I enjoy watching “Chuck’s Day off” from time to time. It’s interesting to see what others make when the pressure of service is off. This past weekend my wife was working nights, so I had the house and kitchen to myself. I decide to indulge my palette with some all time favourites and try to come up with something new and decadent.

I picked up half a dozen Fanny Bay and half a dozen Kushi oysters from my fish monger. I made a simple mignonette of red wine, white wine vinegar and some diced shallots. They were fresh, plump and had a great taste, the nectar tasted like mist that comes of the ocean when waves crash against the rocks.

For the ultimate in decadence I wanted to make a foie gras club sandwich. I had my butcher thinly slice some double smoked bacon. It needed to be very thin to just bring in a wisp of smoke flavour and not overpower the foie. I went on a quest all through White Rock looking for brioche. The typical response from the 16 year olds behind the bakery counters was “what’s that? Is it a cake?”.

I was so focused on making the perfect sandwich that I actually decided to make my own brioche, as the sweet and eggy flavour was the perfect profile for my club that I wasn’t going to settle for any other bread. I used the recipe from epicurious. It took some time, but came out light, flaky and still warm.

I seasoned the foie with some sea salt and fresh cracked pepper and put it in my smoking hot non-stick pan. Similar to last time, I didn’t use any oil or butter in the pan, as the foie will render a enough fat when it hits the pan. I gave each side a nice sear.

While the brioche was baking a made a red wine gelee. Which is simply 1/2 cup of red wine with one packet of gelatin, mix while wine is cold to plume gelatin, bring to a boil, whisk vigarously, then pour into a saran wrapped dish (a little trick is to spray the cling wrap with non-stick spray so that it won’t stick while cooling”.

For some greenery, I used some organic spring greens, juiced one blood orange and mixed one tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper.

To assmble, lightly toast your brioche or give a quick blow torch to caramelize some of the sugars. Next add the smoked bacon, which I cooked for a few minutes per side to crispy then dabbed with paper towel to remove some of the grease. Put the foie on top of the bacon. I julienned the wine gelee, as well as some korean pear and some white peaches to make a quick slaw. Make a nest with the salad.

As for the vino, my product representative from the White Rock BCLC recommended the Macon Villages – Terra Incognito White Burgundy. It was a perfect pairing. The wine had nice body, with a medium viscosity. It was aged in some american oak and had a nice hint of butter but not too much so that your mouth didn’t feel greasy when eaten with the foie. The acidity was just right, it cut slightly into the richness of the dish but didn’t come off as tart.

I recently entered a contest for Swiss House. I may not have won, but I think my recipe is a keeper. Inspired by my time at the Wickaninnish last month, this dish combines, sweet, savoury and crunchy.

Mint and Rosemary Sponge Candy with Lindt Chocolate Drizzle

This is a twist on the classic sponge candy. The familiar taste of caramelized sugar, complemented by the earthiness of mint and rosemary. A sweet and savory combination brought together by the Lindt milk chocolate.

Ingredients:

-3 sprigs of fresh rosemary (picked from sprig)

-2 sprigs of fresh mint (picked from sprig)

-1 cup (250ml) of granulated sugar

-1 cup (250ml) of corn syrup (golden or light)

-1 Tbsp (15ml) baking soda, sifted

-1 Tbsp (15ml) white vinegar

-1/2lb (225gr) of milk chocolate

Equipment:

-Non-stick cooking spray

-Parchment paper

-9-inch square baking pan

-Candy thermometer

-Whisk

-Saucepan

-Metal Mixing bowl

-Bakers rack

-Spatula or fork

Method:

1) Line 9-inch square baking pan (min 2-inch deep) with parchment paper, extend paper 3-4 inches over side to create high walls. Spray with cooking spray.

2) In food processor, pulse mint, rosemary and sugar to make flavored sugar. Mix on high for 1-2 minutes until mint and rosemary are finely chopped and incorporated with sugar.

3) In deep saucepan combine flavored sugar, corn syrup and vinegar. Whisk lightly over medium heat until sugar dissolves.

4) Cook mixture to 310F degrees  (155C), swirl occasionally but do not stir (Be very careful, sugar is close to molten state and will severely burn skin).

5) Remove from heat, add sifted baking soda, stir quickly and carefully. Mixture will foam and rise rapidly. Do not over stir as mixture will deflate.

6) Pour mixture into baking pan, allow to cool minimum 1 hour. Do not touch while cooling or candy will deflate. Once cool, use walls of parchment paper to remove from pan. Peel off parchment paper.  On countertop, use handle of knife break candy into pieces and place on bakers rack.

7) Melt chocolate in mixing bowl  over pot of boiling water. Whisk chocolate gently and bring to 110F (43C). Ensure there are no lumps and the mixture is smooth. Do not let mixture get any hotter or it will become grainy.

Allow chocolate to cool to 85F (29C).

9) Using spatula or fork, drizzle chocolate over broken pieces. Allow chocolate to cool and harden, then serve.

I had the great fortune of having a professional photographer at my dinner party on the weekend. Arcade Orginals took these amazing photos.

Spiced Braised Pork Belly, Celery Root Puree, Micro Greens, Coddled Egg Yolk

Chicken Confit, Celery Root Puree, Quince

Eggless Brownie with Sel Gris, Chipotle Brittle, Raspberry Sorbet, Picked Mint Leaves